Jonas Vildmark: Tjuonajokk

Place: Tjuonajokk, Lapland, Sweden
Coordinates: Lat; 67.61422, Lon: 19.01883
Mountain Map: BD8 Kebnekaise-Saltoluokta
Time: 7 days in August

As I've spent way too little time in the beautiful Lapland I got really glad when my dear friend Per called me up and asked for some help up at Tjuonajokk FishYourDream. My good adventurous American friend Kate is in Sweden so we take this opportunity for some adventure together. No roads lead to Tjuonajokk so the helicopter ride out to the fishing camp is the usual way to get to this paradise. But Kate and I choose to hike out instead. From Nikkaluokta there's a 35 kilometer walk down to Tjuonajokk. The bus out from Kiruna Airport takes about one hour and at 05:00 pm we find a small and rough trail with a worn sign saying "Tjuonajokk". We get stoked as we realize this trail hasn't seen a pair of boots for some while. After a two hour walk East through the blueberry forest by Sweden's highest mountain Kebnekaise we decide to make camp for the night. Good idea to take some rest before we head South up the mountain Lárkinchokkas in the morning. After a nice dinner between friends the rain start falling so we hit the tent for some sleep. Feels great to be on our way!

Foto: K. Morley

Close Encounter with Bear
Around 06:00 am Kate and I wake up when we hear footsteps outside the tent. At first I think it's a person approaching but then a big curious nose pushes the tent tarp against my head and I realize that this is a bear. He smells me for a couple of minutes and we can feel the animals compact body against the ground. As we don't feel threatened we stay quiet without scaring the bear away. After he's left Kate and I start whispering and sudden the nose is back by my head again, this time after a soundless approach. Darn that we don't have a window in this direction; the pics would have been awesome! We get to settle for enjoying the bears shadow over the tarp. When the magnificent creature is gone we surprisingly find our food bag still hanging up in the tree outside the camp. Thanks for breakfast Mr. Bear!

Up the Hill
The rain and wind increase as we start climbing the hill. We get wet all over which is refreshing as the heart speeds from this beautiful and natural StairMaster; 20 kilos on the back and a steep climb offers a nice workout. As we want to reach Tjuonajokk on time we keep our boots warm only stopping for a couple of 5 minutes brakes. This trail is mainly used by snow mobiles in the winter so the maintenance don't have summer hikers in mind. Therefore you'll have to be prepared for some wading cross mires and rivers if you are going this way during summer. After three hills, three mires and ten hours of hiking we can knock on Tjuonajokk fishing camps cozy door.

Foto: K. Morley

First Class Fishing
Tjuonajokk offer the absolute best Greylings in the world. One night I get the honors of breaking my personal Grayling record with the help of a magnificent 48 centimeter (19 inches) Grayling. Also the Brown Trout and the Pike make your dreams come true up here. Fly fishing is the name of the game in these waters and the fishing guides make an incredible nice job in getting the guests up the river and showing them where the fish hangs out. I'm also impressed with the Tjuonajokk fishing camp's restaurant; fabulous food out here in this breathtaking wilderness. Tjuonajokk is genuine Sami ground and I can feel the wings of history as I walk this beautiful land.

Foto: A-M Persson

After a week of inspiring meetings with people from all over the world and working in these great outdoors it's time for me to say goodbye for now and it's with great respect and gratefulness I peek out the chopper window as I head back to Mid Sweden for some deer hunting via Kiruna Airport. During this healing week we have gotten to enjoy both Summer and Fall and I already long back to experience other seasons here in the magical Lapland.